France vs Portugal.

Swell and water, month by month: Hossegor and Ericeira

Open-ocean medians from ERA5, 2015–2024, not surf at the beach. Sources.

Seasons and conditions

Both Hossegor and Biarritz list September to November as the best window, with powerful swells, offshore winds, warm water and fewer crowds, and summer as small and busy. Ericeira shares that pattern, while Lagos in the Algarve runs October to April, with milder winters.

In both countries, winter swells are big and cold, with a 5/4 and boots typical in southwest France and Ericeira. Portugal's south coast is the mildest of the four, which helps in winter.

Wave types: France and Portugal

Hossegor is famous for hollow beach breaks. The guide explains that a deep submarine canyon, the Gouf de Capbreton, lets swells reach the coast with little loss of energy, and shifting sandbanks build barrels. La Gravière is for experts only. Biarritz is gentler, with the longboard waves of the Côte des Basques and big-wave reefs further south, such as Parlementia at Guéthary.

Portugal has reef and point breaks near Ericeira, such as Coxos and Ribeira d'Ilhas, rated intermediate to advanced, with learner beaches such as Foz do Lizandro. Lagos is a base for sheltered south-coast beaches and west-coast waves. The result is more variety in Portugal and more raw beach-break power in France.

Learning to surf: France and Portugal

Both have many schools. France's Biarritz, Anglet, Seignosse and Capbreton are popular learning spots in summer, when waves are small. Outside summer, the Hossegor guide says waves are often too powerful for beginners.

Portugal's Lagos is described as an excellent base with schools driving students to the best beach each day. The Algarve's gentler winter conditions mean learning is possible for more of the year.

Crowds and cost

The French Basque coast and the Landes are busy in July and August, with lifeguarded swimming zones restricting surf areas. Portugal's central coast is also busy in summer, though there is more space on the west coast.

On cost, we give no figures. In general, France's well-known surf towns are priced as a premium European destination, and Portugal offers a wider spread, including lower-cost options in some areas. Compare current prices before deciding.

Getting there and the trip around it

Biarritz airport serves the French coast, and Bordeaux and Bayonne are also used. Lisbon and Faro serve Portugal, and Ericeira and Peniche are within a short drive of Lisbon, which allows a city break.

France offers Basque culture, food and pine forests. Portugal offers cities, seafood and the Algarve, with more day trips. Both are easy for mixed groups.

Power, cold and crowds: the drawbacks

France's downsides are power, cost and rules. Hossegor's beach breaks are among the most powerful in the world and La Gravière is for experts only, so confident intermediates can find themselves out of their depth outside summer. Summer brings supervised swimming zones and crowds, and prices in famous towns are high.

Portugal's downsides are cold water, wind and crowded popular peaks. The Peniche guide says a 4/3 is typical for much of the year, and Supertubos and the best Ericeira reefs are busy. Portugal's variety can also mean more decisions: with so many beaches you may need a car and a good local source on conditions.

Choosing by season and style

For September to November, both are excellent. Choose France if you want hollow beach breaks, good food and a polished setting; choose Portugal if you want reefs, points and the option of a city break. For winter, Portugal's Algarve is milder, while the French coast is cold and powerful. For summer, both are small and busy, which suits beginners and families.

If you are travelling by car from northern Europe, France is closer and the drive is easy. If you are flying, both are straightforward. Check the destination guides for airports and transfer notes.

Planning an Atlantic autumn trip

Before booking, check the month against what you want: autumn for power, summer for learning, winter only if you are experienced and have the wetsuit. Look at where you will sleep relative to the breaks, because both coasts are long and straight and the best wave on the day may be a drive away. Book summer accommodation early on both coasts, and ask about parking, which can be difficult near the beach in high season. Check the baggage rules if you fly with a board.