Portugal vs Morocco.

Swell and water, month by month: Ericeira and Taghazout

Open-ocean medians from ERA5, 2015–2024, not surf at the beach. Sources.

Seasons and water temperature

The guides give September to November as the best window for Ericeira and Peniche, with consistent groundswell, relatively mild water and fewer crowds than summer. Winter is powerful and cold, and summer is usually small, which suits beginners. The Atlantic is cool throughout: the Peniche guide says a 3/2 can work in late summer but most visitors use a 4/3, with a 5/4 and boots in winter.

Morocco's main season is October to March, according to the Taghazout and Imsouane guides, when north-west swells wrap into the right-hand points and days are sunny and mild. The Taghazout guide gives a winter water temperature of about 17 to 18 degrees Celsius, so a 3/2 or 4/3 is common. Summer is small and good for beginners.

Wave types: Portugal and Morocco

Portugal gives a mix: beach breaks such as Supertubos at Peniche, reef and point breaks near Ericeira, a World Surfing Reserve, and sheltered options. The Peniche peninsula faces three directions, so schools can usually find a workable beach.

Morocco is known for right-hand points. Anchor Point and Killer Point near Taghazout are for advanced surfers, and the Bay at Imsouane can peel for a long ride into a harbour, according to the guide. Beginners have beach options such as Devil's Rock. If you like long, rolling waves, Morocco is hard to beat; if you like variety and beach breaks, Portugal wins.

Learning to surf: Portugal and Morocco

Both have many schools. Peniche's Baleal bay and Ericeira's Foz do Lizandro give beginners sheltered options, and schools choose daily. Portuguese schools tend to be well established, and the market is large, so there is choice and competition.

Morocco's camps often take beginners to Devil's Rock, Crocro and Banana Point, with transport included. Imsouane's bay suits longboard and improvers on smaller days. The set-up is often camp-based, which suits solo travellers who want company.

Getting around and infrastructure

Portugal has excellent roads, good airports at Lisbon and Faro, easy car hire and a dense network of cafés, shops and surf shops. You can drive from Lisbon to Ericeira or Peniche in a short time. Rental and repair are easy.

Morocco requires more planning. Agadir is the main airport, transfers to Taghazout and Imsouane are by road, and some facilities are basic. Camps often include transfers. Rental is available, and car hire is possible but roads and driving styles need confidence. Check each guide for notes.

Culture, food and the rest of the trip

Portugal offers cities, seafood, wine and easy day trips: Lisbon, Sintra and Óbidos are close to the central surf coast. Morocco offers souks, mountains, tagines and the Atlas, with a more distinct cultural contrast for many European visitors.

Dress and behaviour norms differ, and visitors should be respectful, especially away from tourist areas. Both countries are good for mixed groups, and Portugal is generally easier for non-surfers who want conventional resort comforts.

Drawbacks on each side of the Atlantic

Portugal's downsides are cool water, crowded peaks in summer and the need to choose carefully among many beaches. A beginner who ends up at a heavy beach break on a big day can have a poor lesson, and the reefs near Ericeira are for confident surfers.

Morocco's downsides are lower infrastructure outside the main camp towns, the need to plan transport and, for some travellers, adjusting to cultural norms. Winter swells can be large and the points are crowded when conditions are good. Always check current travel advice and insurance terms.

Self-guided or camp: planning for each

Before booking, decide whether you want a self-guided trip or a camp. In Portugal, a hire car and a flexible plan work well; in Morocco, a camp with transfers removes much of the logistics. Check the month against the swell, and pack a 3/2 or 4/3 depending on your timing. Read the airline rules for boards if you fly with one, and consider renting instead for a short trip. Check entry requirements for Morocco with the official authority.