Macaronis.
Macaronis is a left-hand reef break in the Mentawai Islands, off the Sumatran coast, and one of the best-known waves in Indonesia. Wikipedia says it was discovered in 1980 by Chris Goodnow, Scott Wakefield and Tony Fitzpatrick, who first called it P-Land, and that it may have been the first wave surfed in the Mentawais. It is a long, regular wall that rewards good rail work and a good sense of line, and it is more forgiving than many of the island's other reef barrels.
Photo: Naila Fathinah · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons- Level
- Intermediate
- Direction and bottom
- Left · Reef
- Best swell
- SW groundswell
- Best wind
- NE offshore
- Best tide
- Works at all stages
- Best months
- Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct
- Size
- Waist-high to double overhead; most fun from shoulder to head-high
- Hazards
- Reef cuts, Boat traffic and crowds, Remote medical care, Sun and heat, Long swims after a lost board
A wave you can ride for a long time
Surf-Forecast describes Macaronis as an exposed reef break that breaks left, rated four out of ten and very consistent. The wave peels along a coral reef for a long distance, with a mix of steep sections and open walls. On a decent swell, the face has enough shape for turns and a barrel or two, but it is rarely as sharp as the nearest right-hander. That mix is why it has been featured in countless magazines and films.
The page gives the best swell as south-west and the best wind as north-east offshore, and says it works at all tide stages. The Mentawai Islands have the most consistent surf breaks in Indonesia west of Sumatra, with year-round waves up to 15 feet according to Wikipedia, though the dry season produces the cleanest faces.
Season and crowd
May to October is the dry season and the usual time to visit. Surf-Forecast's statistics point to April as the best month for clean waves, with about 54 percent clean and 46 percent blown out. The water temperature is about 29 degrees Celsius, so a rash vest is enough.
Because Macaronis is easy to reach by boat from many charters, it is fairly popular and can get crowded, according to the page. Etiquette matters: wait your turn, keep your board under control and respect the surfers on the inside. Most charters organise rotations for their guests, which helps to keep the lineup orderly.
Who should and should not surf it
Macaronis suits confident intermediates and above who can handle a fast wall and a few barrel sections. It is a better choice than the shallow barrels of nearby breaks if you are stepping up. But it is still a reef, and Surf-Forecast warns about rocks in the lineup. Coral cuts are common and need to be cleaned and treated quickly in tropical conditions.
Beginners and weak swimmers should not surf it. The reef is shallow in places, boats operate close to the lineup, and the nearest hospital is far away. If you lose your board you may have to swim a long way. Surfers should carry a first-aid kit, wear a rash vest and consider booties for walking on reef or coral.
Getting there
Macaronis is reached by boat from the Mentawai charter fleet or from island camps. Surf-Forecast lists Padang's Tabing airport at about 217 kilometres in a direct line, and the Bengkulu airport at about 288 kilometres. Wikipedia says more than 40 boats offer charters, and that fast ferries and weekly services link Padang with the Mentawai Islands. Rokot Airport on Sipora provides flights to West Sumatra.
Access rules, permit systems and local fees may apply to surfers in the islands, and they can change. Ask your operator for current information, and do not rely on advice from old websites. Check what is included in a charter, including safety equipment, medical support and communication, and take out insurance that covers boat travel and medical evacuation.
Neighbouring waves
Surf-Forecast lists Gilligans nine kilometres away, Green Bush ten kilometres away, Bommie Peak, Rags Left and Rags Right further along. Lance's Right is a different type of wave, a shallow right. The Mentawai destination guide covers the wider island group.
Choosing a trip that suits your level
Macaronis is often described as more forgiving than some of the island group's other reef waves, but that does not make it a casual choice. Ask a charter operator about the size and wind expected during your dates, and be honest about your ability so they can plan sessions accordingly. Spend your first session on the inside or on smaller waves to get used to the reef and the current. Carry a first-aid kit, wear a rash vest and sunscreen, and rinse every cut immediately. If the crowd is large, share waves, and communicate with other surfers so that everyone gets a fair turn.
The ocean off Mentawai Islands, by month
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Swell, m | 1.5 | 1.4 | 1.5 | 1.6 | 1.7 | 1.9 | 1.9 | 2.1 | 1.9 | 1.7 | 1.6 | 1.5 |
| Period, s | 13 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 14 | 15 | 15 | 15 | 15 | 13 | 13 |
| Water, °C | 29 | 29 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 29 | 29 | 29 | 29 | 29 |
Open-ocean ERA5 medians, not wave size at the break. Sources.
Questions about Macaronis
Is Macaronis a left or a right?
A left. It peels along a coral reef for a long distance, with a reputation for very regular shape.
Who discovered Macaronis?
Wikipedia says it was discovered in 1980 by Chris Goodnow, Scott Wakefield and Tony Fitzpatrick.
When should I go?
May to October is the dry season, and Surf-Forecast shows April as a strong month for clean waves.
Can I reach it without a boat?
Not easily. Most surfers go by charter boat or from a camp, and access rules may apply.
Can I surf Macaronis without staying on a boat?
Most surfers reach it from charters or island camps, and access rules and costs may apply. Ask your operator which arrangement suits you, how many surfers share the reef and what happens when the swell is too small. Check current requirements locally before you travel.
Check a live forecast and local advice before paddling out. Heavy waves injure and kill experienced surfers.