Todos Santos.

The breaks

Recognised, publicly known surf spots around Todos Santos. Suitability depends on the day's swell, wind and tide, so treat the level as a guide, not a guarantee.

A desert town with an ocean on one side

Todos Santos has about 7,000 residents, a mission founded in 1723 and a town centre that has been rebuilt as a gallery and restaurant district. The surrounding land is farmland irrigated by springs, producing vegetables, chilies, avocados, papayas and mangoes. Fishing and ranching are also part of the local economy.

The town grew as a sugarcane centre until the freshwater spring dried up in 1950 and the last mill closed in 1965. Highway 19 was paved in the mid-1980s, and tourists and surfers followed. That history matters because it explains why the place has a village feel, and why water and power are limited resources that visitors should use sparingly.

Cerritos: the beginner and intermediate beach

Cerritos, a short drive south of town near the village of Pescadero, is the area's most popular surf beach. It picks up both the north-west swells of winter and the south swells of summer, so there is surf in most months, and its gently sloping sand makes it the beginner-friendly option. On bigger days the waves get stronger and the currents more noticeable.

The beach is busy at weekends, with schools and rentals. It is wide and open, and rip currents run out through channels, especially at low tide and on bigger swell. Go in the morning when winds are lighter. If you are new to surfing, stay within the area marked by your instructor or beside other learners.

San Pedrito and Punta Lobos

San Pedrito, between Todos Santos and Pescadero, is a more demanding stretch where a beach break and rocky outcrop produce stronger waves. Most sources put its best season from October to April, when north-west swells arrive. Some describe it as a beach break and others as point-like, which suggests that the shape depends on the sand and the swell.

Punta Lobos, south of Todos Santos town, is a rocky point break that is considered a local wave. Fishermen work the beach, and the pecking order in the water is strict. Visitors who want to try it should watch for a while, ask about etiquette and sit wide. If in doubt, choose a different beach. The local community is welcoming, but it values patience.

Swell, wind and the desert climate

Winter brings north-west swell from North Pacific storms and the most consistent surf. Summer brings south swells generated far away in the Southern Hemisphere, which favour Cerritos and other south-facing spots. Late summer is also Pacific hurricane season, and a storm offshore can bring large swell and heavy rain, so keep an eye on the forecast.

The climate is hot and dry. Warmest months are August and September, with mean daily highs over 31°C, while January is the coolest, with highs around 25°C. Annual rainfall is roughly 200 mm, much of it in September. Sun protection is essential, and mornings are generally the best time for glassy conditions before the afternoon wind.

Getting here from Los Cabos

Most visitors fly into Los Cabos International Airport (SJD) and drive. Todos Santos is about an hour's drive north of Cabo San Lucas on Highway 19 and roughly an hour south-west of La Paz. From the airport, allow somewhere between an hour and a half and two hours depending on traffic, and any stop in Cabo.

Highway 19 is a busy two-lane road and is best driven in daylight, since livestock and slow trucks are common after dark. Shuttle services and rental cars are available. A car is useful because the beaches are spread out along the coast, and a rental with some clearance helps on the dirt roads. Buses connect the main towns, but you cannot easily carry a board on them.

Water, power and travelling lightly

Todos Santos has grown quickly, and rapid growth has put pressure on the town's aquifer, which faces over-extraction and saltwater intrusion. Power also comes from La Paz along a line that is working above capacity, and blackouts are regular. These are real constraints, not footnotes.

Visitors can help by using water carefully, choosing accommodation that explains its water source, and keeping showers short. Carry a headlamp and a charged power bank, and treat internet as less reliable than in a city. For remote workers this limits the place's suitability, but those who plan for it find the pace refreshing.

What to do when the surf is flat

The town centre is compact and walkable. There are galleries and craft shops, the old mission church, small cafes and restaurants, and a market scene built around local produce. Day trips are possible to La Paz, with its waterfront, or to Cabo San Lucas.

Whale watching is a seasonal attraction on this coast in winter, when humpback whales are seen from the shore at times. Hiking in the Sierra de la Laguna and horse-riding on the beach are other choices. For a quiet day, sit at the beach with a book and wait for the tide to turn. The surf will not be gone for long.

Todos Santos surf season month by month

A broad planning picture, not a forecast. Swell, wind and water temperature vary from year to year.

Learning to surf in Todos Santos

Cerritos is the main place to take a first lesson, and several schools and instructors operate on the beach, with rental boards available at stands on the sand. The waves are mild when the swell is small, and the wide sandy beach gives students room.

Lessons are typically around two hours with a foam board. The water is warm enough in summer for a rash vest, while winter may call for a spring suit. Ask whether instructors keep groups small and how they choose their position around the rip currents, which change with the tide.

If you are already surfing, a local coach can help you read the banks at San Pedrito and avoid the more demanding parts of the coast. Buy a leash and check your fins before you go out.

Comparing options across the country? Read our guide to surfing in Mexico.