Upolu.

The breaks

Recognised, publicly known surf spots around Upolu. Suitability depends on the day's swell, wind and tide, so treat the level as a guide, not a guarantee.

The island and its customary land

Upolu is the second-largest island in Samoa, about 75 kilometres long and covering roughly 1,125 square kilometres. It is a basaltic shield volcano with a population of about 145,000, making it the most populous Samoan island. Apia, the capital, lies about halfway along the north coast, and Faleolo International Airport is at the western end.

Most land in Samoa is customary land, owned by villages and families rather than individuals or the state. This matters for surfers. Access to the shore and to the sea often passes through village land, and visitors are commonly expected to ask permission and to pay a small fee. The system is part of daily life in Samoa and is a normal part of how coastal resources are shared.

The island has a notable history, including the home of the writer Robert Louis Stevenson at Vailima, now used as the official residence of the head of state, and a deep local culture that Samoans call fa'a Samoa. Visitors who treat that culture with respect usually find the experience richer, on land and in the water.

The south coast reef breaks

The best-known waves break on the south and south-west coasts, where reef passes pick up swell from the Southern Ocean. Boulders is described as an exposed left-hand reef break that works across much of the year, and Salani is known for good waves even outside the trade-wind season. Coconuts is a right-hand reef break within a short paddle of the Sinalei resort area, according to travel sources.

These are reef waves, and several are only reached by boat or from a resort, because the passes sit well off the shore. Wave size ranges widely and the reef can be shallow at low tide. Travel sources describe the area as suited to intermediate and advanced surfers; beginners should not expect to find easy waves at the main passes.

Names of breaks can vary between sources, and some are managed by the nearest village or resort. Rather than trying to find them yourself, ask the place where you are staying which spots are working and what the arrangements are.

When to go: swell, trade winds and cyclones

Samoa has an equatorial climate, with an average temperature around 26.5 degrees Celsius. The main wet season runs from November to April, and June to September is the drier peak tourist period. Cyclones can occur during the wet season, so check forecasts if you travel between November and April.

Surf sources disagree on the best months, which is usual. Some say that May to September brings consistent southern hemisphere swell onto the south-coast reefs; others note that Samoa works year-round and that glassy days appear in February, April and October. The most useful rule is that the south coast does best in the southern winter, while the north coast can pick up northern swells in the southern summer.

Because of this variation, treat the dry-season months of May to October as the safest bet for a first trip, and plan flexibly in the wet season.

Access, fees and etiquette

Because land is customary, surfing access often involves a village fee. Travellers report amounts in the range of 10 to 40 tala for beach access roads on the north side, and a few dollars for some Savai'i beaches, but there is no single published tariff and it can be unclear who to pay. A Samoa Observer article describes a family-run surf spot charging about 15 US dollars per person for unlimited access for the day. Treat these as illustrations and confirm current arrangements directly.

If you stay at a resort or village homestay, your host usually arranges access and boat transport. This is generally the easiest and most respectful path: it makes sure that money goes to the right people and that you are surfing where you are welcome.

Dress modestly in villages, avoid walking through a village during evening prayers if you are unsure, and ask before photographing people. Sunday is a quiet day in much of the country.

Getting to Samoa and around Upolu

Faleolo International Airport (APW) is on the north-west coast of Upolu, with flights from New Zealand, Australia, Fiji and other Pacific hubs. Schedules change, so check current options. From the airport, Apia and the south-coast resorts are road transfers; confirm the time and route with your accommodation, as it depends on where you stay and on traffic.

Taxis, hotel transfers and car hire are the main ways to travel on the island. Samoa switched to driving on the left in 2009. Public buses exist, but timetables are informal and they are not designed for carrying boards.

A ferry runs between Upolu and Savai'i, the larger island to the north-west, if you want to add a trip to the Savai'i breaks. Aganoa Beach on Savai'i has a surf break with left and right waves within paddling distance of the beach and hosted surfing at the 2007 South Pacific Games.

Where to stay for surf

Staying near the breaks usually means a resort or village accommodation on the south or west coast, rather than a hotel in Apia. Several offer boat access to the reef passes and are set up for visiting surfers. Others are simple beach fale, open-sided thatched huts, that give a more local experience.

Apia is the capital and has restaurants, shops and a market. It is a good place to stay for a night or two for supplies, but it is some distance from the best waves. Budget for transport costs if you base yourself in town.

Because accommodation near the breaks is limited, book ahead for the dry-season months, and ask whether the price includes boat transfers, meals and access fees. These extras are often where costs rise.

Hazards on a remote reef coast

Reef is the main danger: shallow coral, sharp edges and fast-changing tide windows. Pay attention to the tide and plan the session around it, and carry reef shoes if you are not used to walking on coral. Cuts become infected quickly in the tropics.

Boat access means you depend on the boatman for your return. Agree the pick-up arrangements and weather limits before you leave. Rough weather can cancel trips at short notice.

Samoa is also exposed to natural hazards. A tsunami struck the south side of Upolu on 29 September 2009, reportedly destroying about twenty villages. Ask your accommodation about the warning system and the route to high ground. In the wet season, cyclones are a consideration.

Upolu surf season month by month

A broad planning picture, not a forecast. Swell, wind and water temperature vary from year to year.

Learning to surf on Upolu

Upolu is not an obvious beginner destination. The best-known waves are reef passes that need boats and experience, and there is no big network of beach-break surf schools as in Bali or Costa Rica.

Intermediate surfers who want to try reef waves will find the area a good step up, particularly if they travel with a resort or guide that can match the break to their ability. Some places offer lessons or guided sessions at gentler spots, but availability changes, so confirm in advance rather than assuming you can arrange it on arrival.

If you are new to surfing, learn the basics somewhere with sandy beach breaks, then come to Samoa when you can paddle through white water, duck-dive and control your board.

Comparing options across the country? Read our guide to surfing in Samoa.