Montañita.

The breaks

Recognised, publicly known surf spots around Montañita. Suitability depends on the day's swell, wind and tide, so treat the level as a guide, not a guarantee.

A beach town with a surf point at its edge

Montañita sits in the parish of Manglaralto in Santa Elena Province, roughly 180 km north-west of Guayaquil, and has a permanent population of only about a thousand people. Its name means 'small mountain', a reference to the headland that separates it from neighbouring Olón. That headland is the reason surfers came: the point gives shape to the swell, and the long beach next to it gives everyone else somewhere to practise.

The town grew from a fishing village into a stop on the backpacker circuit, and surfing is only part of the draw. Expect bars, hostels, craft stalls and street food within a few blocks of the sand, and a crowd that changes sharply between peak weeks and the quiet months.

Reading the two waves: La Punta and the beach

There are two main set-ups. La Punta is the rocky point at the northern end of the beach. Most accounts describe it as a right-hand reef wave that holds a fair amount of swell and works through much of the tide, though at least one source describes it as a left, so look before you paddle out. It is the busiest peak in town and rocks near the take-off and inside are a real hazard.

The beach break stretches for about two kilometres, with rights and lefts over sand. Its character depends on the banks: some days it is soft and forgiving, on others it closes out in long, heavy walls. It is where most lessons take place, and the south end of the beach is usually less crowded than the area opposite the main street.

Olón, Ayampe and other beaches along the coast road

A short ride north, across the headland, Olón has a wide, quiet beach with a more relaxed feel and a few rocky entry points where water shoes are useful. It suits surfers who want a calmer base than Montañita and are happy to walk or take a short taxi in.

Further along the Ruta del Spondylus, Ayampe is a small settlement with a river mouth and a laid-back crowd; sources disagree on exactly where it sits relative to the provincial border, so check a map when planning. Both places pick up the same swell as Montañita and can be less crowded. South of town, the Valdivia archaeological site is about 10 km away and is a sensible half-day for a flat afternoon.

When to go, and what the weather does

The warm, wetter months from January to April bring the larger north swells, and waves of around two metres have been recorded in January to March. Summer waves can be much smaller, typically between knee and head height, with late autumn and winter often bringing waves of around 1.5 metres. Southern swells, usually from June to September, tend to light up the point.

The weather pattern matters as much as the swell. From roughly May to December the sky is often grey and cooler on the coast, while January to April is hot and humid with afternoon showers. Water temperature stays warm enough for board shorts or a thin rash vest for most of the year; a light wetsuit can be useful if the wind is cold.

Nights, noise and sleeping

Montañita is a party town, and the busiest stretch is the main pedestrian street, where bars and music run until dawn. The place hosts a Carnival each February that includes an international surfing competition, and electronic music festivals are held on the beach in peak season.

If you plan to surf at dawn, stay a few blocks back from the bars or in Olón, where nights are quieter. Book ahead for Carnival and national holidays, when prices rise and rooms are scarce. Pickpocketing and bag theft are the common problems in crowded places, so keep valuables out of the water bag and out of sight.

Getting to Montañita from Guayaquil

Most visitors fly into Guayaquil, then travel by road. Direct buses run from the city's main terminal along the coast, and the journey is generally around three hours, though traffic and weekends add time. Private transfers and shared shuttles are available and are simpler with a board bag.

There is also a regional airport at Salinas, further south on the peninsula, which can be useful if you are combining beaches. From Quito, most travellers fly to Guayaquil first. Local transport between Montañita, Olón and Manglaralto is by motorbike taxi, bus or on foot, and none of it is difficult to organise on arrival.

Flat days, whales and the Machalilla coast

When the ocean flattens there is plenty to do without leaving the coast. Walks to nearby beaches, yoga classes and bodyboarding or paddling fill most days, and scuba diving and windsurfing are also popular here.

Farther along the Ruta del Spondylus, Machalilla National Park and the fishing town of Puerto López are well known for humpback whale watching in the middle of the year. If you are travelling in June to September, a boat day can be arranged through licensed operators, which makes more sense than a rushed drive on the way home.

Montañita surf season month by month

A broad planning picture, not a forecast. Swell, wind and water temperature vary from year to year.

Taking lessons on Montañita's beach

Montañita has many schools and board rentals, concentrated close to the beach. The sandy beach break is the standard place to learn, with the south end usually the best choice because it is further from the point. Most lessons are 1.5 to 2 hours; ask whether group size is capped, whether a board and rash vest are included, and who is responsible for people in the water.

Beginners should keep away from La Punta, where rocks and a crowded take-off are a poor combination. Early mornings are calmer, and the wind is usually lighter. If you are staying only a few days, a morning lesson followed by a self-guided session at Olón is a reasonable plan.

Comparing options across the country? Read our guide to surfing in Ecuador.