Santa Cruz.

The breaks

Recognised, publicly known surf spots around Santa Cruz. Suitability depends on the day's swell, wind and tide, so treat the level as a guide, not a guarantee.

Full profile: Steamer Lane.

Where surfing in California began, more or less

In July 1885 three Hawaiian princes surfed on locally milled redwood boards at the mouth of the San Lorenzo River, in what is recorded as one of the first published descriptions of surfing in California. A century and a half later the town is still shaped around the sport. The Santa Cruz Surfing Museum, staffed by volunteers from the local surfing club, sits at Steamer Lane, and the city's surf contests have drawn international fields for decades.

That history helps explain the atmosphere. Locals take their waves seriously, the standard in the water is high and visitors who show some respect are generally welcome. Santa Cruz is also home to a big wetsuit and surfboard industry, and many of the people in the lineup have been surfing here since childhood.

Steamer Lane: the headline break

Steamer Lane is a set of point breaks off the cliffs of West Cliff Drive, near the wharf and the lighthouse. It breaks over rock and mudstone bottom, and it has four main sections: The Slot, Middle Peak, The Point and Indicators, with Third Reef offshore as an expert zone. On a decent day the take-offs are steep and the rides can be long, but the paddle out through a rocky channel is tricky, and the cliffs make a gallery for onlookers.

The Lane is crowded most days, and the pecking order is firm. Intermediates can find a small day and sit wide, but beginners should look elsewhere. Park on West Cliff Drive early, since spaces fill, and watch the sets for ten or fifteen minutes before paddling out.

Pleasure Point and the east side

East of the harbour, Pleasure Point is a well-known stretch of coast running from around 41st Avenue to Moran Lagoon. It includes The Hook, Privates, 38th Avenue and several other peaks over reef and rock, with a lively beachside community along East Cliff Drive. The waves are often a little more forgiving than the Lane, which makes them popular with longboarders and intermediate shortboarders.

Expect a crowd on sunny weekends. Several peaks have different tidal windows, so the best option changes through the day. The east side tends to be sheltered from some northerly winds, which can make it a good fallback when the west-side points are choppy.

Cowell's and the gentle end of town

Cowell's Beach, next to the wharf and the main beach, is the town's classic longboard wave and where many people take their first lessons. Waves break over sand and reef in a protected part of the bay, which keeps them smaller and softer than at Steamer Lane. Rides are slow and a longboard is the right choice.

Because Cowell's is so popular, it is crowded with learners and instructors in summer. Be patient, keep your board under control and avoid paddling through swimmers. Mitchell's Cove, just to the west, offers another option when the swell is small and the wind is right. Combine a session with a walk on the wharf, where sea lions often bark below the boards.

Cold water and sharks

Water temperatures along this coast stay cold all year, with typical winter readings of around 9 to 11°C and late-summer readings around 14 to 17°C. A 4/3 full wetsuit is the year-round standard for most surfers, and a 5/4 with boots and a hood suits winter and spring, when upwelling pushes the temperature down. Fog is common in summer.

The Monterey Bay region is also white shark habitat, particularly the sections north of town towards Año Nuevo. Incidents are rare, but surfers should avoid dawn and dusk, stay out when seals and baitfish are active and heed local warnings. Strong currents and kelp can also be a problem around the points, so a leash and decent fitness are recommended.

Getting to Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz is about 75 miles south of San Francisco and roughly 30 miles from San José. Highway 17 crosses the Santa Cruz Mountains from San José, and the drive takes about 45 minutes to an hour in light traffic; on Friday afternoons and Sunday evenings it can be much slower. From San Francisco, Highway 1 along the coast is more scenic but also slower.

A car is useful because the surf breaks are spread along the coast and public transport is limited, though local buses run between the beaches and the downtown. Parking at the Lane and Pleasure Point is tight at weekends. Cycling is a good way to move along the coast on the flat sections of West Cliff Drive.

Seasons, swell and the wind

Winter brings large north-west swells that bring the biggest waves, and some breaks shut down because they get too big or the tide is wrong. In summer, small south swells and local wind swells fill in the gaps, and the busiest period for visitors is June to August. Spring often has strong afternoon northwesterly winds, and the best sessions are in the early morning.

Autumn gives many people their favourite surf: lighter winds, warmer water by local standards, long-period swells and thinner crowds after the school holidays. Check a local forecast for the tide, because several of the Santa Cruz points are tide-sensitive and a session that is perfect at high tide can be unridable at low.

Santa Cruz surf season month by month

A broad planning picture, not a forecast. Swell, wind and water temperature vary from year to year.

Learning to surf in Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz has a long list of schools and camps, and most lessons run at Cowell's Beach, where the waves are small and soft and the longboard heritage is strong. Lessons usually last around two hours, with a wetsuit and a foam longboard included. In summer, group lessons are booked out early, so reserve ahead.

Because the water is cold, the wetsuit is not optional, and the first session is as much about getting used to the cold as about standing up. Ask how many students share an instructor and whether the school uses the whole of Cowell's or a marked area. The beach is busy, and an organised class helps you avoid colliding with swimmers.

If you want to move on from beginner waves, local coaches can help you read tides and choose the right peak at Pleasure Point. Steamer Lane is not a place to learn.

Comparing options across the country? Read our guide to surfing in the USA.